© Amy Vander Vorste (email@example.com)
Available in Google Drive as a PDF.
- Worsted weight yarn – 20g or 45 yards
- Tape measure
- Nalbinding needle
Level: Easy – need to know Finnish 2+2 (2 on thumb and 2 behind)
The pattern should be easily adaptable for different stitches and yarn weights.
About the Pattern:
The author wanted headbands that weren’t tight or uncomfortable like store bought headbands. These are snug, but not too tight and stay in place well.
Starting: I like to build up my loops on my thumb so I don’t have a knotted mess of loops at my start. See tutorial “Build Up Start For Nalbinding Stitches with Many Loops” for more info.
Ending: To help blend the end of your work in, tighten the last several loops of your stitches by pulling on the top of the loop and pull the loop yarn “out” of the front of the fabric. I usually tighten 3-4 stitches and make them gradually smaller, but do as many as you see fit.
To help blend in the beginning of your work, you’ll also want to tighten several stitches. Turn your work to the “wrong” side and pull at the top loop of each stitch to tighten – just like you did above. You may end up with a last loop that won’t tighten that way. I have to pull on the center part of the stitch to get the last loop worked in. Or if it gives you too much trouble, tuck that loop in with the end of the string.
Measure your head.
Make a chain of Finnish 2+2 stitches just a bit shorter than the circumference of your head – by ½ to 1 inch or 1 to 2.5 cm. It’s recommended that you make your stitches fairly tight so your headband will hold to your head. But not so tight you hands hurt from making stitches. You may have to untwist the chain and it will want to retwist. Be careful not to stretch your chain – because new rows will make it tighten again and you want the best measurement.
Now connect your chain so you can work in the round. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted.
A. If you are making a simple headband (no shaping) – work 4 rows or to a width of about 1.5 inches or 3.5 cm. Break off your working yarn. Tighten your end stitches and work in threads. Your headband is ready to wear!
B. If you’re making a headband with shaping – work 3 rows, or the number of rows to reach a width of 1 to 1.5 inches (or 2.5 to 3.5 cm).
Place a marker on the top of the work (where you ended it). *This will be important to know when we add a shaping row on each side. When you work the bottom/first row – it will be different to avoid odd looking holes in your work.
Regarding stitch markers: I just use a crochet stitch marker or a piece of string.)
Fold headband flat with the beginning and end edges in the center. Place markers where the folds are for the edges of the flattened piece. (This is about where your ears are. Feel free to try it on and verify this. The start and end of the rows on the band should go in the back. Move markers if needed.)
Shaping row for top:
Turn your work so the top row stitch marker is to the back and the other side of the circle is facing you.
For right handers:
On the top row, attach our new row at the left hand marker where there was a fold.
For left handers:
You’ll start from the other side, since you work right to left.
Work to the other fold marker.
Shaping row on the bottom of the headband:
Turn the headband inside out. (You’ll be working on the backside – to avoid odd looking spaces in your stitches from working backwards on your rows.)
Work the same shaping row for this side – marker to marker.
If the back of your stitches sticks out a bit more than the other rows, when you’re done – give the row a tug and they’ll even out.
Your shaping rows should look like this.
Tighten your end stitches and work in threads.
Your headband is now ready to wear. Enjoy!