Simple Nalbound Headband Pattern

© Amy Vander Vorste (info@shyredfox.com)

Available in Google Drive as a PDF.

Requirements:

  • Worsted weight yarn – 20g or 45 yards
  • Tape measure
  • Scissors
  • Nalbinding needle

Level: Easy – need to know Finnish 2+2 (2 on thumb and 2 behind)

The pattern should be easily adaptable for different stitches and yarn weights.

About the Pattern:

The author wanted headbands that weren’t tight or uncomfortable like store bought headbands. These are snug, but not too tight and stay in place well.


Tips:

Starting: I like to build up my loops on my thumb so I don’t have a knotted mess of loops at my start. See tutorial “Build Up Start For Nalbinding Stitches with Many Loops” for more info.

Ending: To help blend the end of your work in, tighten the last several loops of your stitches by pulling on the top of the loop and pull the loop yarn “out” of the front of the fabric. I usually tighten 3-4 stitches and make them gradually smaller, but do as many as you see fit.

To help blend in the beginning of your work, you’ll also want to tighten several stitches. Turn your work to the “wrong” side and pull at the top loop of each stitch to tighten – just like you did above. You may end up with a last loop that won’t tighten that way. I have to pull on the center part of the stitch to get the last loop worked in. Or if it gives you too much trouble, tuck that loop in with the end of the string.

 

Headband Directions:

Measure your head.

Make a chain of Finnish 2+2 stitches just a bit shorter than the circumference of your head – by  ½ to 1 inch or 1 to 2.5 cm. It’s recommended that you make your stitches fairly tight so your headband will hold to your head. But not so tight you hands hurt from making stitches. You may have to untwist the chain and it will want to retwist. Be careful not to stretch your chain – because new rows will make it tighten again and you want the best measurement.

Now connect your chain so you can work in the round. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted.

A. If you are making a simple headband (no shaping) – work 4 rows or to a width of about 1.5 inches or 3.5 cm. Break off your working yarn. Tighten your end stitches and work in threads. Your headband is ready to wear!

B. If you’re making a headband with shaping – work 3 rows, or the number of rows to reach a width of 1 to 1.5 inches (or 2.5 to 3.5 cm).

Shaping (Optional)

Place a marker on the top of the work (where you ended it). *This will be important to know when we add a shaping row on each side. When you work the bottom/first row – it will be different to avoid odd looking holes in your work.

Regarding stitch markers: I just use a crochet stitch marker or a piece of string.)

 

Fold headband flat with the beginning and end edges in the center. Place markers where the folds are for the edges of the flattened piece. (This is about where your ears are. Feel free to try it on and verify this. The start and end of the rows on the band should go in the back. Move markers if needed.)

Shaping row for top:

Turn your work so the top row stitch marker is to the back and the other side of the circle is facing you.

For right handers:

On the top row, attach our new row at the left hand marker where there was a fold.

For left handers:

You’ll start from the other side, since you work right to left.

Work to the other fold marker.

Shaping row on the bottom of the headband:

Turn the headband inside out. (You’ll be working on the backside – to avoid odd looking spaces in your stitches from working backwards on your rows.)

Work the same shaping row for this side – marker to marker.

If the back of your stitches sticks out a bit more than the other rows, when you’re done – give the row a tug and they’ll even out.

Your shaping rows should look like this.

Tighten your end stitches and work in threads.

Your headband is now ready to wear. Enjoy!

Tiny Nalbinding Mitten Ornament Pattern

I think I’ve made close to 20 of these for Christmas.  (I don’t know for sure how many because I’ve given several away before I could photograph them.)  These little mitten ornaments are perfect for using up scraps and take me 1-2 hours to make (depending on how many distractions there are at the time.)  Since my pattern was only written on an index card, I figured writing it down here would be a good thing.  (Paper and I have a tendency to loose each other…)  And you all can enjoy the pattern too.

(This pattern is free for personal use only and my Christmas gift to my readers.  If you wish to sell mitten ornaments from this pattern, please contact me.  We can work out an arrangement.)

Recommended yarn weight: sock yarn
Amount: Small scraps.  I think its about 10-15ish or so yards  (I use 3-4 arm lengths of yarn at a time.  And I use about 3 of those.)
Nalbinding stitch: Oslo stitch.  (For small stitches, I use the needle width to gauge my stitch size.  Not my thumb.  Like Sanna-Mari does in her video – at 6:20.)

Start: Make a chain of 5 stitches, turn and skip 1 stitch.  Work back to start (3 stitches worked back). (8 stitches total)
Round 1:  Work around, increasing in every stitch.  (16 stitches)
Round 2: Work around, increasing in every other stitch (24 stitches)
Rounds 3-6: Work around.
Round 7: Work 6 sts.  Chain 6 stitches (for thumb hole).  Connect work in 5th or 6th stitch of previous row, and work the rest of the way around.
Rounds 8-11: Work around.
Finish off.  Tie a loop of string to the bottom of your mitten – so it can hang as an ornament.

Thumb:
Connect a new thread 1 stitch into a row on the thumb hole.  Work 3 rounds.  (Just be careful to only use the stitches in the thumb hole, and not into the mitten.  You don’t want a really wide thumb.)  Decrease around on next row.  Finish off and tuck in threads.

Enjoy your new mitten ornament!  Merry Christmas!

Simple Garter Lacy Shawlette Pattern

Modifying a pattern to be a lace pattern was a push for me. I wanted my shawl to be neck down, but have the lace rows. Also I wanted to have a zen knitting or process knitting shawlette. I didn’t want to have to think much while I worked. I had enough to think through while I worked with many issues coming up in my life. (Good things, by the way.)

After several iterations at working through this, I can now present – the Simple Garter Lacy Shawlette. It’s a variant of the Simple Yet Effective Shawl by Laura Chau. And this variant has her blessing.

The variations are

  • I used a lace row.
  • It’s only knitted in garter stitch. (Because I don’t like purling.)
  • It’s meant to use a skein of sock yarn.
  • I add in stitch markers to it’s really a brainless knit, even with the lace row.
  • I don’t specify the bind off. I don’t see that a purl bind off would be of benefit here.

This pattern can be varied in size (depending on the amount of yarn you have) and in needle size. I used a single skein of sock yarn (Three Irish Girls Adorn Sock – 30 yards) for mine and size 6 needles). (Model is my youngest in elementary school. This is a good sized shawl for her.)

Starting Section

Cast on 5 stitches

(Right Side) K1, (place marker to mark right side) yo, k1, yo (place marker), k1(<- your center stitch) (place marker), yo, k1, yo, k1

Go to step 2 of the pattern below.

Pattern Section Notes

If you need to see an overall idea of how the pattern works. I divide up the yarn over groups into 5 sections:

  • the first yo that is an increase on every odd pattern row
  • the yo + K2tog (repeat) that make the lace pattern up to the center on the lace rows
  • The center yo, k1 yo for the lace line up the center
  • the yo, then k2tog + yo (repeat) that make the lace pattern after the center on the lace rows
  • the last yo that is an increase on every odd pattern row

So I grouped them in parenthesis for easy identification.

You’ll recognize increase rows because of the stitch marker that is just past the first stitch on your needle.

The Pattern Rows

  1. (Lace + increase row, RS) (K1, move marker, yo, k1), (yo, k2tog – repeat to marker), (yo, (move marker) K1, (move marker) yo), (k2tog, yo – repeat until you get to the last 2 stitches), (K1, yo, k1)
  2. (WS) Knit across
  3. (RS, Increase row) (K1, move marker, yo, k1) , knit to marker, (yo, (move marker) K1, (move marker) yo), knit to last 2 stitches, (k1, yo, k1)
    (WS) Knit across

Repeat rows #3 and #4 – three more times. (for a total of 10 rows in the pattern).

Bind off as you see fit when you find there won’t be enough yarn for another 10 row pattern.

Simpler Nalbinding Tote for Beginners

After my test class for “Beginning Nalbinding” – we found there isn’t enough time to cover color changes.  (Ah well – this just leaves more room for more classes next year – nalbinding I, nalbinding II,…nalbinding X)  So I simplified the pattern and will have 2 simple tote patterns now.  One with stripes and one even simpler with out stripes.

image

So I present the new little pattern!  Enjoy!

Beginning Nalbinding – Small 2 Color Tote Pattern

Since June, I’ve been developing a pattern for my upcoming Beginning Nalbinding class this fall at North Country Fiber Fair.  (The class info is the last class on the Saturday list.)

After the generous pattern testing help of several folks in the Nalbinders on Ravelry group, I feel my first ever pattern is ready to share.  (Though, there are a few testers yet to hear back from.  The feedback so far has been pretty consistent and I’ve made the requested changes.  I can always make an update if needed.)

So without further ado, I present the Beginning Nalbinding – Small 2 Color Tote Pattern.  Enjoy!